KATHMANDU & POKHARA, NEPAL

Baudhanatha Stupa, Kathmandu

With a population of around 6 million people, Kathmandu is the capital city of Nepal. Kathmandu stands at an elevation of approximately 1400 metres above sea level. The multi ethnic population of Nepal are primarily Hindus or Buddhists. Nepalese are very obliging and always smiling so it’s easy to overlook the dust and traffic congestions. Later, I learned that they live by the prayer “Om Mani Padme Hum” and in a nutshell it means to achieve perfection in the practice of generosity. Whilst tourism is vital for their economy, with the earthquake of 2015, the country is simply struggling to keep up with infrastructure demands that come with tourism. I was pleasantly surprised that the visa on arrival process was quick and easy. There isn’t a distinct downtown and no high rises, just a lot of businesses and people going about their lives.

Prayer wheels at Swayambhu Stupa, Kathmandu
Trinkets and other Kitsch at Swayambhu Stupa, Kathmandu

Going to any city, like everyone else we did the touristy things and visited the Patan Durbar Square, Swayambhu Stupa, Baudhannath Stupa and Pasupati temple. Religious and cultural festivities forma major part of the lives of people living in Kathmandu. Wherever we went, we saw priests conducting prayers of some sort.  We went mid-December so our views were somewhat obscured by fog, but on a clear day our guide told us that one can get a panoramic view of Kathmandu from ascending the 365 steps leading to the Swayambhu temple. Our last stop was the Pasupati temple of Lord Shiva. This is a sacred site and busloads of Hindu pilgrims from India are queuing to go inside the temple. This was a culture shock to me and I walked to a nearby park as I could not bear the open cremations.

Pokhara, Nepal

The weather gods didn’t oblige as we were looking forward to an Everest scenic flight, so we cut short our stay in Kathmandu by a day and headed for Pokhara. We have extended family in Pokhara so our family arranged for a taxi to take us there. On paper, it is about 200 kilometres and it took us almost six hours to get there with half an hour pit stop for lunch. While navigating the traffic within city limits was tricky, and to put a positive spin being a passenger in the vehicle was exhilarating! It looked like a one way steep road but there were three unmarked lanes! There were no barriers to the cliff face!! However the vistas and the deep valleys were remarkable.

Pokhara, Nepal
Machhapuchchhre , (Fish Tail Mountain ), Nepal
Women carrying baskets on their back in Pokhara, Nepal

Pokhara was amazing and well worth the journey. The Annapurna trail begins here. It is pristine and picturesque and lots of activities for the trekkers, mountain climbers and paragliding. My husband’s uncle who lives in Pokhara did paragliding at 72 years so I took inspiration from him and was glad I did – this was truly amazing as you fly like a bird you can feel that you can touch the mountains. The crew from Team 5 Paragliding were awesome as I was nervous as hell and they made me feel comfortable.

We flew out of Kathmandu and if your flight is during the day, ask to be seated on the right side of the plane as you can have really good views of Everest if it is a clear day.

RICE NOODLES WITH MUSHROOMS

Rice Noodles with mushrooms

I love mushrooms and I am always experimenting ways in which to use them. This is a vegetarian version of noodle dishes made at the open food stalls in Hong Kong.

10 grams dried sliced shitake mushrooms

250 grams white mushrooms

100 grams of garlic shoots or Chinese chives

375 grams of rice sticks (medium sized rice noodles)

4 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 garlic cloves sliced

4 teaspoons light soy sauce

½ teaspoon dark soy sauce

½ teaspoon ground white pepper

200 grams bean sprouts

Salt to taste

Soak the dried mushrooms in hot water from the kettle for at least 30 minutes. Slice the white mushrooms as thin as you can. Cut the garlic shoots into 5 centimetre pieces and if they are too thick split them lengthways. Cover the rice sticks in warm water from the tap, leave for a few minutes, and then use your fingers to separate them. Shake dry in a colander.

Heat half the oil in a large wok over a high flame Add the shitake mushrooms and garlic. Fry until the smell of garlic is evident. Then add the other mushrooms and garlic shoots and fry over a medium heat for a further 2 minutes. Add a dash of the dark soy sauce so mushrooms get a rich colour. Remove and set aside.

Heat the remaining oil on high heat and add the rice sticks. Fry until the rice sticks are hot. Add the light and remaining dark soy sauce. Sprinkle the white pepper and salt, then fry to combine. Return the mushrooms and garlic shoots along with the bean sprouts to the wok, stir fry until everything is piping hot. Serve immediately. Serves 4 as a main at lunch.

PENNE PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI SAUCE

I bought Marcella Hazan’s Marcella Cucina cook book over twenty years ago. The book has been a very useful reference for me to learn how to cook authentic Italian as the techniques and recipes are easy to follow. This is an adaptation from her book and takes about half an hour to prepare (quicker than you can get takeaways). I might add very tasty too!

Penne Pasta with Zucchini Sauce

7 or 8 medium zucchinis

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

3-4 cloves of garlic peeled and finely chopped

½ to 1 teaspoon chilli flakes

2 tablespoons Italian parsley chopped

1 x 400 grams tin of plum Italian tomatoes

500 grams box of good quality Penne Pasta or other hollow tube pasta

Salt to taste

Parmesan shavings for garnish

METHOD

Wash zucchinis well and cut them into batons (lengthways) about 5 centimetres long and about 1 centimetre wide. In a large fry pan put two tablespoons of oil and the finely chopped garlic turning heat to medium. Fry from time to time and when garlic turns pale brown and the smell is evident, throw in the parsley and the zucchini pieces along with salt and the chilli flakes. Turn over once or twice before covering with lid. Cook for about 5 -7 minutes. Add the tomatoes and squash them up in your hand while adding. Mix to combine and keep it on a steady simmer for a further ten minutes.

Cook the pasta as per the instructions on the box, drain and toss the sauce immediately. Stir in the remaining olive oil. Mix to combine. Serve promptly with shavings of Parmesan cheese. Serves 4

EGGPLANT PARMIGIANA

Eggplant Parmigiana

Did you know that this classic Italian dish has its origins in Campania, Sicily? People tend to associate Parmigiana to Parma in the north but now you know. There are several variations and you can do it with breaded meat but in our household we prefer the vegetarian version with eggplants. The process is long but I assure there is nothing technical or hard and the end result is very tasty. Remember good things take time!

Eggplant Parmigiana

3 large eggplants

Plain flour for dusting

100 ml of extra virgin olive oil

2 cups salsa di pomodori (recipe below)

150 grams Mozzarella cheese grated or sliced thin

50 grams of Parmigiano Reggiano

Salt

METHOD

Slice the eggplant lengthways into 1 centimetre slices. You will have about 7 or 8 slices from each eggplant. Don’t make them too thin as they will disintegrate when you fry. Sprinkle each layer liberally with salt, as you place in a colander in a sink and leave for about 2 hours.

Slice the eggplant lengthways
Salting the eggplant

Preheat oven to 180oC while you prepare the salsa di pomodori and the eggplant.

 Pat dry with kitchen towel, dust lightly with flour. Heat a couple of tablespoons of oil in a wide fry pan. Add the eggplant slices and fry briskly until browned on both sides. Do not crowd the pan. Remove and drain on kitchen paper. Repeat with the remaining oil and eggplant slices.

Layering the Eggplants with salsa di pomodori

Use a lasagne dish, with alternate layers of salsa di pomodori, eggplant and Mozzarella cheese. Finish the last layer with Parmigiano Reggiano.

Bake in preheated oven for 30 to 40 minutes until golden. Serve hot as a main for four with crisp Cos lettuce salad or as a side dish to accompany meat for eight people.

SALSA di POMODORI

500 grams of tinned plum tomatoes

1 onion finely chopped

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

3 cloves of plump garlic finely chopped

1 carrot diced

1 tablespoon tomato paste

1 teaspoon sugar

½ to 1 teaspoon chilli flakes

Salt and pepper

2 – 3 sprigs of fresh basil

METHOD

Heat a saucepan and when hot enough add the olive oil, followed by the onion. Once onion is softened, add the garlic, chilli flakes, sugar, tomatoes, carrot and tomato paste. Salt to taste and grind plenty of black pepper. Stir with a wooden spoon to break up the tomatoes. Add half cup water and bring to the boil. Partially cover and let simmer for 15 -20 minutes. Remove from heat, blitz to form sauce. Stir in basil if using.

BEANS & PEAS SABZI

Beans and Peas Sabzi

400 grams of beans cut into 3 centimetre pieces (I use cut frozen beans)

300 grams of peas

1 large onion chopped finely (150 grams)

1 thumb size ginger, peeled and grated

2 large tomatoes blanched, skin peeled and chopped fine or use 1 plum tomato from a tin of plum tomatoes and squash it up with fingers

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

½ teaspoon turmeric

½ to 1 teaspoon chilli powder

1 teaspoon garam masala powder

3 tablespoons ghee

Salt to taste

Squeeze of lemon

METHOD

Put the beans and peas into separate bowls of cold water to thaw.

Heat a medium sized sauté or fry pan. Add the ghee and once it melts, add the cumin seeds so they splutter. Fry the onions until golden (about 10 minutes) and then add the turmeric, garam masala and chilli powder. Fry off for about 30 seconds and then add the tomato along with a tablespoon of water. While tomato is frying, squeeze out the ginger juice (from the grated ginger) into the pan and mix it in. Now add salt and the beans and mix to combine. Cover with a lid and reduce heat so the steam cooks the beans for about five to seven minutes. Stir in the peas and cook for a further 3 to 4 minutes. If you find there is too much water, then remove the lid, turn to high and cook off for a minute or so until the water evaporates. Just before serving, squeeze the lemon if using. Serve hot with rotis or pita bread. Serves 4.

BALSAMIC VINAIGRETTE

Ingredients for Balsamic Vinaigrette

This is so easy and quick to make. I make 500 ml at a time and use it on garden salads, roast vegetables and even on pasta salads.

200 ml Balsamic Vinegar

250 ml vegetable oil like canola

1 tablespoon sugar

Plenty of freshly ground pepper

1 tablespoon salt

3 tablespoons Dijon mustard

3-4 cloves of plump garlic peeled (optional)

Using a large measuring jug, measure out the vinegar. Add the salt, sugar, mustard. Grind plenty of freshly ground black pepper. Then add the oil. Whisk everything together until it is smooth and thick. If using, put the garlic in your bottle and then pour over your dressing. Store in refrigerator and use as needed. Makes 500ml.

KIMCHI FRIED RICE

Kimchi Fried Rice

6 cups cooked, cold long grain rice

1 onion chopped

3 cloves of garlic finely chopped

1 carrot diced

½ cup of frozen peas soaked in tap water

2-3 spring onions washed and cut

2 tablespoons of vegetable oil

1 tablespoon of sesame oil

4 tablespoons Kimchi

3 tablespoons Gochujang paste

3 tablespoons soy sauce

METHOD

Kimchi and Gochujang Paste

In a small bowl, mix 2 tablespoons of Gochujang paste, soy sauce and sesame oil. Break up the rice so there are no clumps.

Heat a well-seasoned wok. Once hot, add the vegetable oil and fry the onions along with the carrots. (You can use sweet corn or finely shredded cabbage if you like). When the onion begins to soften, add the garlic and 1 tablespoon of gochujang paste. Continue frying for about 20 seconds after which you can add the cold rice. Continue frying until all the rice is mixed in with vegetables already in the wok. Then add the Kimchi and the gochujang paste mixture. Fry to combine and when everything is incorporated (about 3-4 minutes), add the peas and the whites of the spring onion. Cover with a lid for about 2 minutes and allow to cook. Garnish with the green portion of spring onions and serve hot. You can serve topped with a fried egg to make a complete meal. Serves 4.

CARAMEL OAT SLICE

Caramel Oat Slice

I don’t have much of a sweet tooth but I can never pass up gooey things with caramel sauce. Having said that I cannot eat more than a piece or a spoonful of the luscious dulce de leche. My daughter made this over the weekend for a bake sale at her work and it was popular. This is easy and the recipe is adapted from Jo Seagar. Makes a perfect gift or if you need to take a plate.

Base

2 cups plain flour

1 cup self-rising flour

1 cup desiccated coconut

1.5 cups of brown sugar

3 cups rolled oats

2 eggs

250 grams butter, melted

Filling

200 grams butter

400 grams sweetened condensed milk

4 tablespoons golden syrup

1 teaspoon vanilla essence

Maldon sea salt 

METHOD

Pre-heat oven to 180oC. Grease a large 25 centimetre x 35 centimetre x 5 centimetre (depth) tin with baking paper. Make sure the paper has a good overhang.

Lightly toast the desiccated coconut and set aside. For the base, combine dry ingredients in a bowl. Add eggs and butter. Mix well, then press half of the mixture into the prepared tin. Take time to press it down and place in oven for 15 to 20 minutes.

While the base is browning, slowly melt butter, condensed milk and golden syrup together. Stirring continuously and taking care not to burn the bottom, heat the filling until it turns golden and smell the caramel flavour as it intensifies. Mix the vanilla essence. Remove tin with the base from the oven and pour filling onto base. Spread evenly and now place the remaining crumble mixture on top. Sprinkle Maldon sea salt on top so that as you bit into the slice, there is a hint of saltiness. Bake for a further 15-20 minutes. Cool and refrigerate.

TIPS

Best to cut after it has been refrigerated for at least 6-8 hours. Remove the slice from the tin and place on chopping board. To get perfect slices, trim the edges off first and then cut into 24 -28 pieces.

POTATO GRATIN

Potato Gratin

Who doesn’t love the creamy goodness of an old fashioned potato gratin?

1 kilogram of waxy potatoes like Nadine

¾ cup cream

½ cup milk

3 cloves garlic finely chopped or minced

150 grams Gruyere cheese grated

15 grams butter cubed

¼ teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg

Salt and pepper

Preheat oven to 180o C. Peel and slice potatoes thinly (I used my hand or you can use a mandolin). Place the cream, milk and garlic in a largish pot and season well with salt and pepper. Bring to a gentle boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer. Add the sliced potatoes and cook for 5 minutes.

Gently transfer half of the potatoes to a baking dish. Cover with half of the cheese, grate some of the nutmeg, add the remaining potatoes and cream mixture and top with remaining cheese. Grate some more nutmeg and top with the cubed butter.

Bake for 40 minutes until golden and bubbling. Leave to sit for 5 minutes before serving. Serves 6.

MOJITO

Fresh limes

When there’s an abundance of limes from the garden, then it’s time for mojitos. The key is to have your limes and mint fresh. This is an easy classic cocktail and yet I have been served flavourless mojitos in bars and the reason being not using the freshest of ingredients.

Mojito

1 lime

6-8 mint leaves plus a sprig for garnish

2 teaspoons of sugar

60 ml white rum

A splash of soda water

METHOD

Slice the lime into wedges. Place the wedges in a cocktail shaker. Muddle the limes with a muddler or the end of a rolling pin or other such implement until all the juice is extracted. Add mint leaves and sugar and muddle to combine. Add the rum followed by ice and shake. Strain out into a Collins glass filled with ice. Top with a splash of soda and finish with sprig of mint.